Saturday 27 November 2010

theory of light

http://www.tpub.com/content/photography/14209/

For reference only at this stage

Sample video for pro fashion shoot

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QmaSMl3td-g


This shows a pro shoot in action, and some idea of how it is run on the day, but does not show all the pre planning required for this shoot. it does not show the timings, the effort required in booking models, photographers or in fact the location. 
Neither does it show the costings nor the client brief, but this becomes obvious with the shoot itself. I used this video to get an idea of how a professional shoot would take place.

Saturday 20 November 2010

MARY QUANT SHOES - British Pathe

MARY QUANT SHOES - British Pathe

Here is a promotional video of Mary Quant displaying her designer shoes. Goes back abit but all the details are there.

http://www.michaeljonesphotostudio.com/

http://www.photosantagto.com/

Jewellery - tips and tricks


I found this article on the web and decided to copy it for future reference as it looks fairly comprehensive. I will be pursuing this futher once I have achieved my firast images.

Jewelry Photography - Tips and Tricks 

Jewelry photography may be very tricky sometimes. Each jewelry piece has its own unique look:  different colors, different materials and so on. Some has lots of reflections. Some, like diamonds and gem stones for example, has little sparkles that are easy to admire when you actually hold them in your hand, but are very hard to capture with the camera.

As a jewelry designer or manufacturer, you must wonder how they create all these perfect Images you usually see in different types of jewelry advertising. Yes – sometimes those ads look so perfect that it’s hard to believe that these are real jewelry. And yes again – some of them are not real at all! Whether it’s a huge amount of photo retouch work that polishes every corner of the jewelry and adds this magic touch of too-good-to-be-true sparkle or it’s simply the fact that what you see is not a photo at all, but a computer draw that looks perfect.

As a professional jewelry photographer myself, I challenge myself to achieve these kind of perfect Images that will make people want to purchase the jewelry today!

Almost every one of my customers tried first to take pictures of the jewelry by himself. Some of them even bought all kinds of professional equipment that is made especially for jewelry photography. You know – all those little tents, light boxes and special lighting. They all ended up with – still – amateur photos that didn’t do any justice to their beautiful pieces of jewelry. But they knew that their jewelry deserves more, as they wanted to reach more prospected buyers, so they started to look for professional photographer who is specialized with jewelry, and this is how they found me.

Why Professional Jewelry photography is so important?
When you are coming to show your jewelry pieces to the world, you really like to think big. Even if you only have a tiny jewelry workshop in a small town - these days, when the internet opened new horizons to each and every one of us, you know you can reach so much more!
People are buying more and more over the internet or through a printed catalog. They don’t actually see or feel your jewelry; they only see a picture of it! So with all respect to the jewelry piece itself, they actually buy a picture. And as we all know, picture is worth 1,000 words, so no matter how great will be your product description, they will still base most of their buying decision over the jewelry  picture (the description is also important of course, but it will only support the decision).

The conclusion of all that is pretty clear: the jewelry pictures must be no less than perfect! It has to be very sharp and professional, to show the sparkle, to bring out the true colors and to have a perfect background. The picture has to make the potential customer actually feels like getting this beautiful gem right now!

How can you do it?
Finding a local jewelry professional photographer is not an easy task, especially if you don’t live around New York, Los Angeles, Toronto or any other big city that is full of talented photographers who has lots of experience with jewelry.
Some of my customers tried to use couple of photographers in the past and had hard time with the process and with the results. Jewelry photography is very different than, let’s say, wedding or children photography. So even if you know the best wedding photographer in town, ask to see his or hers jewelry photography portfolio before you hire them to do the job.
There are couple steps that will help your jewelry photography project to become successful:

  1. Think about your goals. What would you like to achieve? Who is your target market? What are the sales levels you wish to reach? Write all these before you start anything else.
  2. Now, try as much as possible to match your answers to your budget. For example, if you wish to reach the entire world or even ‘just’ North America, you will probably need a huge budget… on the other hand, if you wish to only reach a small town, a smaller budget will work well for you.
  3. Think of yourself as an explorer. If you never used professional photographer for your jewelry /products before, you have a lot to learn about it before and during the process. Each kind of jewelry looks better from different angles, with different lights and on different backgrounds. Your photographer would be a great help in showcase your jewelry in its best. Don’t hesitate to ask your photographer to try couple of angels or backgrounds, and allow you to choose the right once.
  4. Do your research! After defining your target market, set your budget and decide what photography style you like – search the web for more Ideas and options. I suggest looking at more than one search engine; try 2 or 3 different search engines to get a wider variety of results. Save those that you like best on file for future reference (show those Images to your photographer/graphic designer and other professionals, so they will get a clear Idea of what you like. We don’t try to copy anyone’s work of course; just to get a general inspiration!).
  5. Find your photographer! Through an internet search or a friend’s/colleague referral; view their online portfolios, choose the once you like best and ask for more than one quote. When you ask for the quote, don’t forget to mention your exact requirements, i.e. – how many jewelry  pieces you would like to shoot, how are you going to use the photos and for when do you need it to be done. I also recommend you to actually talk to the photographers over the phone or meet them in person if it’s possible. Having good communication and understating with your photographer is extremely important!
  6. If you can’t find a great photographer that can work within you budget in your area, don’t hesitate to call photographers from another cities or even countries (I work in Toronto and serve customers in the USA and other countries!). Sometimes the cost of shipping the jewelry to the photographer’s location via FedEx, UPS or other couriers, will pay itself, especially if you look for a long term results. Getting the best photos that will help you reach more customers and increase your sales may be very profitable and will justify paying a little more for the back-and-forth shipping of the jewelry.
  7. Need to shoot diamonds and precious stones that can’t be shipped away just like that? If you have a serious amount of jewelry  pieces to shoot, It may be better for you to pay a good professional photographer the expenses of coming to your location for a day or two with all the necessary photography equipment and get the job done for you. And one more tip about diamonds photography: when you have a photo session of very expensive jewelry, work with one piece at a time. Finish with one, put it back and get to the next one. It’s the safest way!

    What should you ask your photographer

    You finally found the perfect photographer! Before you hire him or her, I suggest you to find out the next important details:

    - Files: generally, there are 2 kinds of files. The first is the large/original files. These are the files you need for prints and any kind of enlargements (catalogs, posters, printed advertising, etc.).
    The second kind of files are the small versions of these large files, which are great for any web use: your website, emails, social websites such as Facebook or MySpace, and so on.
    Please note: you can downsize the large files to become a small files, but you cannot do the opposite (unless you want to get a horrible pixelated Images!). This is why it’s so important to make sure you will get ALL the large files from your photographer.
    - Prints: in these digital days, prints are not a must. As long as you are getting all the large files from your photographer (on CD, DVD or directly to your FTP server) you will not necessarily need any printed files. You can always print them yourself anywhere you like.
    - Extra expenses: Before starting, make sure you will not have to pay any extra expenses such as traveling fees or assistant fees that were not mentioned by the photographer on the official quote.
    - Photo retouch: It’s not a secret anymore that the most beautiful Images in the world are retouched with professional photo retouch softwares. Whether it is jewelry, shoes, bags or a beautiful young model – those Images get a serious touch-up! Good photo retouch work will enhance the photo in many ways: it will remove unnecessary reflections, add exactly the right sparkle if needed, clean the background to perfection and more. So, before you hire your photographer, make sure to include a professional photo retouch work for each and every Image, or to have someone else for the retouch job. It’s more important than you may think. 
Plan Your Photo Shoot Carefully
After all said and done, you have to plan your photo shoot carefully. Remember – it all starts on your plan. After searching the web and probably getting many Ideas, you have a vision of what will fits your jewelry best. If you are not sure, or if you have couple Ideas and visions that not necessarily goes well one with another, simply consult with your photographer. Experienced Jewelry photographers will listen to your Ideas and goals and will be able to give you the right advice and solutions to help you showcase your jewelry in its best.

From my own experience, there are couple Issues that comes up with most jewelry photo sessions:

Proper angels – some jewelry will look simply amazing from very specific angels, and very plain from different one. Make sure to make the right choices!

Background – Lots of times we will end up with the decision to have a pure white or pure black background for the jewelry pieces, but many times we will love to see them over a gradient background, nature color or an interesting texture that will bring out specific stone colors or shape.

Focus 
– if you attend to sell your jewelry online or through a catalog, you will probably look for a very sharp Image that will show a clear and perfect Image of the jewelry from every angle. On the other hand, if you wish to have nice artistic gallery of the photos while not exposing too many details to your competitors, you may consider the split focus style, where the focus is only on the main part of the jewelry (main stone for example) and the other parts of the jewelry will blend blurry and nicely with the background.

Use a model 
– I suggest using model for at least couple of items. For example, if you need the photos for a website, use a model for some beauty shots of the model wearing some of the pieces for the home page and couple of sub-pages, and show all the rest of the pieces by themselves on a plain background. This is, of course, just a suggestion; you may choose to show ALL your jewelry pieces on a model or on a plain background.
Choosing the right model is a subject of its own and I will probably dedicate another article for this Issue. Very briefly I can just say that I strongly recommend you to hire a professional experienced model and to make sure that they sign a ‘model release’ form that allow you to use the pictures legally in every way you agreed on.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MuMZK1J0zZI

This shows some basic shooting techniques. Something to think about and take note of but not necessarily follow.

http://www.fashion.net/fashion/designers/

http://www.amynnasser.com/

How to be a fashion photographer


How to become a fashion photographer

A career in fashion photography doesn't have to be an impossible dream. Three industry insiders tell Ben Widdicombe their tips for getting started. 
With its huge audience, high pay-checks and glamorous international lifestyle, fashion photography may seem like one of the world's most sought-after professions. But for every fashion photographer who makes it through the door of a top magazine, a thousand others find their niche fashion advertising, art photography, celebrity portraiture or even paparazzi work to make a living. 

Allure magazine photo editor Clio McNicholl, photo agent Gloria Cappelletti and New York fashion photographer Eva Mueller agree that breaking into the industry can be hard. But they have some tips for beginners on setting up a portfolio, submitting work to magazine picture editors, choosing the right photo agency and even getting shown in a gallery. 
Setting up a portfolio

A photographer's most important tool is her portfolio, and this is particularly true for beginners who don't have an established reputation. 

"Having been around, I know how hard it is to get in the door," says Allure magazine photo editor Clio McNicholl, who receives around 50 unsolicited portfolios a month. Conde Nast's Allure, with a monthly circulation of almost 900,000, is a prime target for beginners wanting to get their work seen. "If I don't know who the person is, I ask them to send me some promotional material. Generally I only see people who are coming with a direct recommendation from somebody I know," she says. 

Many photographers find that websites offer an inexpensive way to showcase a relatively large quantity of images. Eva Mueller (www.evamueller.com), a Munich-born fashion and beauty photographer who has been living and working in Manhattan for ten years, points out that computer editing is also a method of keeping down retouching and printing costs. 

But despite the medium's advantages, most industry professionals will still need to see an old-fashioned book before they hire you. By all means use the web as your calling card, but have something to show them when they call you in for a meeting. 

Many fashion photographers find the sharp, bright imaging of 4 x 5" transparencies show off their work to best effect. Tear-sheets (literally, pages ripped from a magazine) are great if you've been published, but good quality, 8 x 10" prints are also OK. Have at least 20 in your book, and be prepared to leave them for at least a week. 

"I like to see a common thread throughout the book," says Clio McNicholl, who says she can tell within three images whether she likes a photographer's style. "Tell a story: not necessarily having all the pictures relating to each other, but I like to have some sort of sense at the end of it that I've seen that photographer's personality come through in the pictures." 

The images you choose to showcase in your portfolio should be thematically linked to the job you're trying to get – still-lifes or product shots if you're going for an advertising gig, for example. But also throw in one or two other images to demonstrate your range. Strong portraits are always a safe bet, as they tend to stay in the mind of the viewer. 

Once you've got your portfolio together, the next challenge is to get the picture editor to use you. 
Picking your picture editor

"Most people who cold call me haven't done their research, which is the world's biggest mistake," says Clio McNicholl. "The single biggest thing that people should do is their research. They should know what the magazine does, and see how you can apply that to what you do. And they should at least know the name of the photo editor." 

When you submit work to photo editors, remember that you're "showing" rather than "selling". Editors almost never buy the specific image they see before them; they're looking for a photographer who can execute future commissions. You'll need to be persistent in sending out your work, and ruthless in editing what you choose to show. 

The best way to grab an editor's attention is to show previously published work. But there's a down-side. "Because there's such an over-supply of photographers, a lot of magazines really take advantage of that fact," says Eva Mueller. "Some mags have a decent budget, but a lot of magazines just cover your expenses, they don't pay for your time or anything. And a lot of magazines don't pay at all." McNicholl says Allure's rates start at $350 a day for unknown photographers, up to $130,000 for a fashion spread. 

A photograph is a document just as much as an article or an essay, and picture editors are looking for concise images which clearly communicate an idea or an emotion. Celebrity portraiture, for example, should reveal an aspect of the subject's character, preferably one that is in harmony with the accompanying written profile. Women's magazines all over the world buy hundred of stock shots every month – typically young women having fun with their boyfriends, hanging out with friends, or maybe moping home alone with their stuffed toys – all of which express a sentiment commonly dealt with in feature articles. If your work speaks clearly, you'll stand a much better chance with picture editors than with vague or ambiguous images. 

When you're submitting your work, remember: 
  • Call the magazine ahead and get the name of the person to whose attention the submission should be marked
  • Label everything with your name and telephone number
  • Send working prints or transparencies, not originals
  • Include a stamped, self-addressed envelope if you want the work back

Eve Mueller has one last warning about dealing with magazines: "Another bad thing is not getting paid in ages – months and months and months. Some clients really take advantage of the fact that there are so many photographers out there: they make you pay for the whole shoot, they alter your pictures and don't tell you when they drop the story. Sometimes they're just really disrespectful toward the photographer." 

There is a way to avoid having to deal with photo editors, however: and that's to have a photo agency do the selling on your behalf. 
Finding a photo agent

Photo agencies exist to liaise with clients and sell photographers' work on their behalf. They benefit everyone from start-out photographers, who may not have many industry contacts, to seasoned professionals, who are too busy to take care of business dealings themselves. 

Gloria Cappelletti is an agent with the Management Artists' Organization (MSO) in Manhattan, which represents a stable of prominent fashion photographers including Stevein Klein, Michelangelo di Battista, Stefan Sedanoui and Alexei Hay. 

"First of all, it's vital to be known, and an agency is in daily contact with clients and publications," she says. "That's the best way for a young photographer to be able to have a connection with them, because usually the photographer is busy taking pictures, and the agent is busy talking to clients. And that's the way it should be. Usually the photographer doesn't have enough time to take care of everything." 

Agencies can also re-sell your work in several different markets, acting as a mini publicist and giving career advice. There are so many agencies – and so many photographers – that Cappelletti says it's important to research which one may be right for you before making an approach. 

"The young photographer has to understand their target, in terms of their personal goals the direction the photographer wants to take," she says. "Everyone is different." 

Agents recommend treating your first contact with them as seriously as if it were a job interview. You should also consider whether they already represent someone whose style is significantly similar to your own – there may not be enough work for both of you, and the other photographer could resent the competition. 

A photo agency is not the only place that can sell your work. If you're more interested in concentrating on your personal vision than taking commercial work, you can also considering exhibiting in a fine art photography gallery. 
Getting a gallery

Once derided as a scientific curiosity with no artistic value, photographs are now one of the hottest growth areas in the international fine art market. 

While gelatin silver prints are the staple of fine art photography, you'll find a healthy interest both in contemporary photos using antique methods (such as Chuck Close's daguerreotypes), as well as modern printing methods, including Cibachromes and C-prints. 

Like any artistic undertaking, art photography is unlikely to pay you a living wage for many years. Although many artists sell their work directly from the Internet, critical attention and the strongest sales come from a relationship with a Gallery. While there is now at least one photo gallery in most major cities, the center of the world art photo market is New York. Manhattan boasts around 100 galleries dealing in photographic prints, and prices there tend to be strongest. A comprehensive list of New York and international galleries is available at the websites of the bimonthly listings guide Photograph, as well as theAssociation of International Photography Art Dealers

Before approaching any gallery with your work, you should telephone and request details of their submissions policy. Many galleries review new work only at set times of the year, and even to get in the door of some places you will need the recommendation of somebody known to the gallery directors. (Sometimes it helps to drop the name of a well-known critic or museum director, even if your connection to them is tenuous.) 

If a gallery is interested in taking you on as an artist, they'll probably want to see a representative sampling of your work. Even if you have one or two knock-out images in your portfolio, a gallery will want to know that you have a mature body of work with a consistent standard throughout. Remember that many artists join a gallery simply by having their work go into the back-room inventory, where it will be shown to specific collectors, rather than having a public exhibition. Not everyone is offered a solo show. 

The most important thing to remember about working with a gallery is to maintain a proper business relationship. Every print you give to a gallery should be inventoried by you – not them – and you should understand when and how you can expect payment in the even of a sale. Industry standard is that the artist receives 50% of the retail price of a photo. 

You should also discuss whether you are free to have relationships with other galleries, or if your gallery expects exclusivity. If you have a New York gallery, for example, but then arrange to have a show in Los Angeles, sometimes the New York gallery will expect a cut (typically 10%). However, in return for that, they are expected to deal with details like paperwork and shipping. Each relationship between artist and gallery is unique, and you should get as much as possible in writing at the beginning.

http://www.fashionphotographyblog.com/

Use of Speedlights in photography


How I Use Speedlights…

12, October 2010
Speedlight Example
I’m sort of known for not being a fan of using speedlights. Just never liked the look they give. I am not sure where this idea or belief came from, but I remember being back in college in the mid-’80′s and my colleagues and I would sort of categorize photographers who use this kind of light as Not Serious Ad Shooters. Not fair, I know, but none the less, I was young and impressionable and the idea has stayed with me over the years. However, over the last two or three years, I have been incorporating speedlights with my other lighting, whether I”m using natural light or studio flash like my Profotos. And what I mean by incorporating is that I use the speedlight to embellish the main lighting on my set. So let me explain that more clearly.

Speedlight Birdcage
Grey Gardens
Let’s say I’m shooting outdoors with available sunlight and I want a harsh edge light or a back hair light. I will have one of my assistants hold the speedlight either in his hand or on a light stand, and angle it exactly where I want that light to hit. Speedlights are great for outdoor use because they run on batteries, they’re lightweight and easy to pack. But for me, getting them to do what I want is the tricky part. We use all sorts of things to angle the light, like cupping a hand over it to create a barn door or even taking cardboard and holding it over one part of the light so we can control where it hits. Or putting it behind something to add a pop of light in the background. For instance, on the Genlux Grey Garden’s shoot, inside the bird cage is a SB 800 wrapped up in some diffusion material that I normally put over a large umbrella, just to diffuse the out put of light coming from the speedlight. The light created just enough glow inside that cage, adding depth and drama to the photograph without it taking over or competing with my key lights. It “embellished” the shot. It didn’t light the shot, it just complemented the shot.
Speedlight Example
Hush Magazine
On a recent editorial shoot for HUSH Magazine, a new magazine out of Belgium, we used a speedlight on a stand, place behind the windows and aimed it towards the back of the models head to recreate a sunburst of light, backlighting the model and pumping in a bit of light on the background to create a more interesting shot. The main light, though, was one profoto head with a beauty dish directed on the front of the model. Or the shot of Eugenia on the beach with the sun setting behind her. That’s not actually the sun, we used a speedlight to mimic the sun, creating a fabulous lens flare and hair light. We only use the speedlights as accent lights. I have never used a speedlight on top of my camera. I know other photographer’s do, using all kinds of diffusion kits and tricks to create these lovely images but you’ll never find me doing that on any fashion shoot. Well, never say never……I think I should have learned that one by now. But I can pretty guarantee I probably will never use one on top of my camera as the key light. If I wanted that stark overlit look, I would use a ringflash as oppose to a speedlight, I think.
Speedlight Example 3
I can’t speak for Canon, but I know that the Nikon speedlights can sync with your camera or you can use TTL metering when they’re off the camera however I never use them this way. I sync it with my pocket wizard and control the light manually as I would with my regular strobe heads. That way I have complete control of my light instead of letting the camera “guess” for me, which is common and easy to do when you’re working with speedlights. It’s important to me to always have control of my lights. Always. Your lighting is what conveys your vision and your vision is what ultimately speaks through your photographs. I use speedlights sparingly and carefully to enhance the overall lighting on my shoots. And for this, I think they do indeed get the job done

Monday 8 November 2010

Car shoot day 6th November 2010

Jim and I had arranged to do a car shoot some time ago, with Jim concentrating on the car etc for his calender, and I was to do the fashion accesories, shoes and Jewellery. Jim had organised a model and I had spoken to some friends and arranged some cars. In the end we had 1 model and the use of 2 cars, unfortunalely due to wet roads we did not have access to other cars. However we did have use of a Rolls Corniche (ex Elton John) and a Farreri. Both red. A bright but cool day ensued, and with Emma (she was shivering alot) a super time was had. Unfortunately we did have enough leads to use all the lighting, and the kit we had on Saturday was different to the kit we had a practice on.


This is the Corniche, but the sun was very bright at this time and the owner had run off with the keys!!!!!!!!! so we could not move it!!

An early shot of Emma getting out of the Rolls. No extra lighting used here.

This is focusing on Emma's necklace.

Again focusing on Emma's necklace whilst relaxing in the Farrari

A close up of Emma's necklace.


Help, my car's broken down.

This was the outfit that we choose for Emma to start with. Focusing on the necklace again.

well just relax and change shoes

blond and Farrari, whatever next?

Oh to do it all again now that I have a better understanding of how to light the subject, and get more detail and varience in the accessories.

Now the influences for the above

There are several photographers that I have studied and they are:-

William Metcalf
This is an advert for the car (but not for stockings!)
Reinfried Marass

Short bio- born 1960 in Vienna. Started photography at 18 after graduating as a mechanical engineer. The positioning and relationshiop of points, lines and areas in his photos are influenced and dictated by the "Bauhaus", that combined crafts and Fine Art. His work is done by avaiable light and he says he has not used a flash or similar lighting equipment. He comments "I'm a strict follower of the 'the codex'-the unwritten 'contract' between the photographer and the viewer. This contract states that the photograph must reflect the truth. Digital post-produssing used in a minimalist way, just to enhance the technical quality-not to create fake shots fake light situations. In my opinion 'sticking to this rule' becomes even more important in the digital era of photography". He has posted many images and has a large number of books published. His abilty to capture the image infront of him shows his talent and craft.


The above image is stated by Reinfried as "perhaps the most beautiful image I have ever posted..." Circa 2009.

I particulary like the way the sun has been handled in 2 of the images, as this is a tricky lighting to capture without blowing all the highlights. I especially like the black and white rendition, and the way the background is completely out of focus. There is showing a reflection in the mirror of the lady in the second one.The bottom one shows how to get out of the car, and althought the lady does not show her face we have the anticipation of her emerging from the car.

Mark Peterman

The one above has been taken from above giving a good shot of the interior, and also the illusion of movement with showing the gravel outside the car. Again this looks like it was taken in sunlight and the contrast has been handled well here. The second image has been taken through the glasss and the lighting has been thrown onto the girls face. This is in direct contrast to the one above where the shot is taken to the inside of the car. Both shots show the interior of the car in 2 different ways.

Gabriele Rigon

Th ewonderful portrait in the mirror is what grabbed my attention, combined with the out of focus background, but shows the elegant location this image was taken. The first image is very well composed and the angles lead you all round the image. The black and white effects work really well here, as well as the focusing and contrasts, with even lighting all round.

David Perry
Short bio -Born 2/11/59 given first camera at 10, but was an 8mm movie camera.Studied photography at Art Centre College of Design, and opened his first studio in 1986. By 1991 he ahd begun documenting ans romanticizing the enrging underground hot rod and pin-up culture in California. he has had books and exhibitions world wide.



These images are more inclines to feture the models shown, but they also show considerable detail of the cars they are sitting in as well. Once again the first image is taken in sunshine and looks to be early morning with the subtle warm lighting.
The other 2 are shown as interior shots, the middle one shows not only the interior but you can also see the exterior, with the lighting being very even over the whole image. The exterior is not visible in the last image with all the lighting being concentrated within the car interior. They are both taken with a fairly wide lens to get the whole of the interior in. The detail shown is very good and clear. Again the black and white images are outstanding.